The cost of maintaining a 90’s BMW 325i (…aka “e36″)

…is high. Yeah. It’s true.

So it’s also true that it’s absolutely, just really a fantastic thing to drive, but OEM parts are spendy. Labor costs can manifest the definition of outrageous at the dealer, so avoid work from them like the plague. In fact, just don’t even go near there, because I promise that there will be something newer and fancier sitting in the body shop that will make you unbelievably jealous.

New M3 getting $4000 worth of BBS rims. New M5 in an accident. New M6 needs wipers. Porsche anything.

It’s guaranteed. It happens to me every time.

Anyway, here’s a summary:

Spending so far this year (but this is mostly deferred maintenance type of stuff, so “to be fair,” I should really retroactively depreciate it since about 2005…) :

• Oil change: $75 for BMW synthetic fluid and filter
• Coolant change: haven’t done it yet. I’m still evaluating options.
  
• Brake rotors (4), pads (4), fluid, bolts, and sensor wires: $450
• BMW M-Contour rims (beautiful!), used (17×7.5f, 17×8.5r) and Kumho Ecsta MX (sticky!) tires: $800
• Replacement BMW roundel for hood, with grommets: $35
• License plate lights (2): $3
• PIAA wiper blades (2): $50
• Windshield washer pump and nozzles (2) :$35
• The infamous “Brake Light Switch”: $13
• Bilstein HD Rear Shocks (2): $140
• Bilstein HD Front Struts (2): $300
• Rear upper shock mounts and RSM reinforcement plates: $50
• Other items (CG-LOCK, zeolite packets for cabin and trunk, clutch pedal pad, fluids): $100

Total spending: $2300, give or take (from tax and shipping).

I expect to incur another $1000 (…and maybe up to $2000…) next fall for headlights, M3 swaybars, another set of Bridgestone Blizzak winter tires, maybe M3 tan/black vader seats or other sport seats, and maybe a 3.23:1 limited slip differential; from this list, only an oil change, the winter tires and the headlights are truly essential.

More just FYI: the mileage is at about 70k, so I’m expecting the radiator neck to crack and require replacement within 20-30k miles. I’ve already replaced the water pump, as every other e36 has or will have to very soon. A clutch replacement kit is about $300 for parts, if and when I need it (…hopefully FAR in the future).

Doing the “back of the napkin” calculations, this comes to about $300 a month for the privilege of parking the thing in the garage downstairs, including the purchase cost of the car minus my conservatively estimated resale value in a year or two, as well as some body work and a “cheap” repaint from an eminently reasonable local guy, and at that price, it beats the hell out of a new Hyundai or Chevy.

Sheer driving pleasure value of the f&#$ing decade, right there.

——–

Here’s a list of valuable BMW d.i.y. resources, at least for similarly happy E36 owners:

1. www.dtmpower.net
2. www.bimmerforums.com
3. www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e36
4. www.bmwe36blog.com/

• http://moodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk/moodledata_shared/CDX%20eTextbook/dswmedia/steersusp/steersusp.html
• http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml
• http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.ht
• http://ask.metafilter.com/23596/Why-do-German-cars-use-lug-BOLTS-instead-of-lug-NUTS
• http://www.kouki.co.uk/Utilities/tyresizer.asp
• http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/tech_main.htm
• http://www.garageboy.com/bmw/brakefaq.html
• http://www.garageboy.com/fahrt/index.html
• http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml
• http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakesystems_upgradeselections.shtml

…and these instructional links from Pelican Parts: